Portugal Schist Villages of Lousã Mountain, Day Trip from Coimbra

The Aldeias do Xisto, or Schist villages, are tucked away high in the Serra da Lousã mountains of central Portugal. These centuries old villages were built primarily of slate stone, available locally. Until recently, they were hard to reach, with access primarily by steep mountain trails. They were largely abandoned during the mid-20th century, as people sought work in the cities. In recent years, many villages have been restored, leading to fairy-tale like villages blending seamlessly into the forest. There is so much history here, that a half or full day tour is the best way to experience it in a short amount of time. I did just that on a recent solo day trip from Coimbra. Come along on a private 4×4 day tour from Coimbra to experience and learn about the history of the Portugal Schist Villages, based on my personal experience.

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Off-Roading Into the Mountains

The adventure began with a pickup in Coimbra, where I met my guide Alfredo—an incredibly warm and knowledgeable local who immediately made me feel at ease. From there, we left the city behind and headed for the mountains, trading pavement for narrow, winding roads that only a 4-wheel-drive vehicle could manage for our 1/2 day tour. Could you drive this yourself? Yes, but I would caution that some of these roads are windy and only wide enough for one car. I preferred leaving the driving to an expert in the area, given also that I was traveling solo on this adventure.

As we climbed higher, the landscape changed dramatically. The hills were covered in thick forests, punctuated with sporadic views. We paused for a quick photo stop overlooking the medieval Castelo da Lousã, perched on a rocky outcrop with views down into the valley. Though we didn’t stop at the castle itself, it inspired me to want to take a hiking trip in the area, including stops at the castle.

Discovering Cerdeira, Candal, and Talasnal

Cerdeira: A Creative Haven in the Mountains

Tucked into the hills on a narrow mountain road, Cerdeira is perhaps the most artistically vibrant of the Schist Villages. This tiny village, once nearly abandoned, was brought back to life through a project called Cerdeira – Home for Creativity. A group of artists and visionaries restored the village as a retreat for creativity and sustainability. Today, it is a cultural hub, offering artist residencies, workshops, and occasional arts festivals. Check the website linked above for workshops, whether ceramics or azulejos tile making.

Each Schist house has been carefully renovated using traditional techniques, and you can stay in several of them overnight. Many are outfitted with cozy fireplaces, handcrafted furniture, and stunning views. The village has a small café and art gallery, and visitors can explore trails that start right from the village edge. Cerdeira was my personal favorite village. It’s incredibly well restored, has unique art offerings, and has a cozy and peaceful feel that I felt couldn’t be matched in the other locations.

Candal: The Gateway Village with Mountain Views

Our next step was Candal, one of the most accessible of the schist villages, located right along the EN236-1 road. Historically, Candal was a small farming and shepherding community, where residents lived off the land and natural mountain resources. Like many of the Aldeias do Xisto, it was gradually abandoned over the 20th century as younger generations moved to urban centers. But thanks to coordinated regional efforts in the early 2000s, many of the homes have been lovingly restored, preserving the slate exteriors that characterize these mountain hamlets.

Today, Candal has a welcoming visitor center and a small but charming café where you can sit and take in panoramic views of the surrounding hills. There’s also a craft shop showcasing locally made products like honey, soap, and woven textiles, though this wasn’t open during my visit. Only a few people live here full time, but there are options for those who’d like to book a vacation rental.

I had about 30 minutes to wander through Candal on my own, which was a peaceful way to enjoy the village. While I enjoyed my tour, it was almost too quiet in the off season (I didn’t see a single other person).

Talasnal: The Fairytale Village with Forest Charm

Talasnal is the crown jewel of the Lousã mountain villages. Its picturesque alleyways and dense forest make it feel straight out of a fantasy novel. Dating back several centuries, Talasnal was once a thriving mountain community, which was abandoned for many years. In recent decades, private owners and local organizations restored the homes and breathed life back into the village.

Today, Talasnal has a small but growing number of accommodations, shops, and eateries. This includes a café where we stopped to enjoy a hot drink and sample chestnut liqueur and pastries, a regional specialty. The village is truly charming and in many ways, more beautiful than the others, with its maze-like paths, rustic staircases, and ivy-covered façades. When I visited, it was decorated for the holidays, adding to its charm. You can even find a sneak peak of Lousã Castle from town.

Many of the homes are now used for rural tourism, such as the top rated Casa Tio Tóte. Some of Lousã’s larger trails pass through here. Those working in the café and shops were warm and welcoming. Why didn’t Talasnal rate as my favorite, given its beauty and charm? I’d love to visit Talasnal again and use this as a base for hiking in the area. Cerdeira won me over though with its isolation and artistic bent.

Along the way, we also passed Aldeia do Casal Novo, another charming hamlet clinging to the side of the mountain. We didn’t stop here, as it is not restored at this point.

Want More Time in the Schist Villages?

While the half-day tour was a great introduction, I wish that I had signed up for the full-day tour. This version includes additional remote villages like Gondramaz, Cadaval Cimeiro and Cadaval Fundeiro, Aigra Velha, Aigra Nova, and Pena.

These would be perfect to explore with more time and maybe even an overnight stay or two for some hiking and deeper immersion. Though the terrain is incredibly steep in parts, this would be a wonderful location for a multi-day point-to-point hike. This hike is not organized with luggage transfer services like the Camino and the Portuguese Fisherman’s Trail. Hikers can carry their own packs, or if preferred, Alfredo can support with luggage transfers. We’ll share more when we complete this hiking experience.

Why It’s Worth Visiting the Portugal Schist Villages

This tour is more than just a scenic drive through the Lousã mountains. It was a unique way to learn about the history of the region and the people who populated this area. Alfredo enriched the experience by sharing stories of the villages’ pasts and how locals are bringing them back to life today, in the form of rural tourism, artist workshops, and local food traditions.

Schist Villages Travel Tips

Getting to the Schist Villages

This private tour is available via Viator and includes pickup in Coimbra. Booking in advance is recommended as spots are limited, especially during high season. You can find additional tours in the area on GetYourGuide and Viator.

It is possible to do this tour on your own. Here are a few options:

• By car: If you decide to rent a car, read our tips for renting a car in Portugal to ensure a stress free rental experience. We use and recommend Discover Cars for our Portuguese car rentals. Candal and Talasnal are easily reached on the main road, while Cerdeira is a bit harder to reach.
• By bus: Take the Metro Mondego bus line from Coimbra to Lousã. From there, the best options to get to the mountain villages are hiking, or arranging for a taxi.

Where to Stay when Visiting Portugal Schist Villages

For an unforgettable stay in Coimbra, base yourself in the heart of the historic center at the Sapientia Boutique Hotel. This stylish and sustainable property is located right next to the University of Coimbra. In addition to the incredible location just steps from the Joanina Library, the sunsets over the river from the rooftop and its warm hospitality are incredible. See our full review of Sapientia Boutique Hotel for more information.

A few other excellent options nearby include the elegant Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra, known for its beautifully restored stone interiors, and Hotel Quinta das Lágrimas, a romantic retreat set in lush gardens just across the river from town. A more budget-conscious options is the Serenata Hotel & Hostel Coimbra.

A few Schist Village lodging options are:

• Talasnal: Casa do Ti Tóte, the top rated 1 bedroom vacation rental, with outdoor pool.
• Cerdeira: Home for Creativity Vacation Rentals. A wide selection of rentals are available through the arts school.

Search for other lodging options on the map below:

Whether you’re seeking scenic beauty, cultural heritage, or just a peaceful break from the city, the Schist Villages of Lousã offer a truly special escape. I’m already dreaming of returning in spring or fall to do some hiking and spend a night or more in one of these stone-built hideaways.

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