How to Plan your Week in Western Sicily Away from the Crowds

Discover the charm of Western Sicily, a treasure trove of cultural, historical, and natural beauty. This guide will lead you through a week-long itinerary through Western Sicily away from the bustling crowds, letting you experience the serene and authentic side of this magnificent region. From the coastal allure of Palermo and Cefalu to the timeless elegance of Erice, each day of this itinerary brings a new chapter of Sicilian magic.

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We recommend staying in 3 locations to best complete this week itinerary in Western Sicily. If you prefer moving from town to town each night, that is certainly a viable option as well. You’ll find our recommendations on where to stay here. We recommend:

• Nights 1-2: Palermo
• Nights 3-6: Scopello or Erice
• Night 7: Agrigento

Your itinerary includes:

• Days 1 and 2: Palermo and Cefalu
• Day 3: Borgo Parrini and Scopello (including the Zingaro Reserve)
• Day 4: Favignana Island
• Day 5: Levanzo Island
• Day 6: Erice
• Day 7: Agrigento and the Valley of Temples

Day 1 & 2: Palermo and Cefalu

We kick off your week in Western Sicily itinerary with a 2 night stay in the heart of Palermo. This will give you 1 full day to spend in Palermo and 1 full day in Cefalu. Is 1 day in Palermo enough? It is enough to see the highlights, though you could easily extend this by another day or two. We would recommend not renting a car for this portion of your trip. Public transport and walking are the easiest ways to navigate Palermo and Cefalu.

Day 1 Morning: Palermo Cathedral and Norman Palace

Start your day with a traditional Sicilian breakfast of cornetto and cappucino at a local café. Start your morning early wandering through Palermo’s historic streets to experience the city’s culture and history without the crowds.

Your first stop is the Palermo Cathedral, with its Norman, Moorish, and Gothic architecture. The cathedral is open 7 am – 7 pm, except Sundays, when it opens at 8 am. Arrive early to beat the crowds and explore the cathedral at a leisurely pace. An important note on visiting the cathedral: you must cover your shoulders and your knees when entering the cathedral.

A short walk from the cathedral is the Norman Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni). Pay particular attention to the Palatine Chapel, known for its breathtaking mosaics. If you need a break, enjoy the parks just outside the Norman Palace for a peaceful walk or rest.

Day 1 Afternoon: Quattro Canti and the Markets

Take a break and eat lunch at a local trattoria to enjoy Sicilian specialties. After lunch, walk through the Quattro Canti, a baroque square at the heart of Palermo’s historic crossroads, lined with beautiful buildings and fountains.

Explore one of Palermo’s vibrant markets, Capo or Ballarò. Experience the lively atmosphere and maybe pick up some local delicacies. This would be a great place for a coffee and afternoon snack. Visit Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio and San Cataldo Churches, which blend Norman and Arabic architectural styles. San Cataldo is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Day 1 Evening: Palermo

Take a break in the beautiful Giardino Garibaldi, known for its giant Ficus trees. Head over to Piazza San Domenico, where you’ll enjoy an aperitivo in the lively square, a perfect spot to soak in the local ambiance.

For dinner, check out Locale, a Sicilian tavern with super friendly service and a cocktail bar. End your day with a leisurely walk along the Foro Italico, a seafront promenade, perfect for enjoying the cool Mediterranean breeze.

Day 2 Morning: Historic Cefalu

Take a short train ride to the picturesque town of Cefalù (Trainline is a great tool for booking your tickets). This charming coastal town offers a blend of history, stunning beaches, and a relaxed atmosphere. Start your day at a seaside café and a stroll along the harbor. From there, head to the Norman Cefalû Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece from the 12th century.

Wander through the narrow, medieval streets of Cefalù. Discover quaint shops, small chapels, and hidden courtyards. Stop by the Lavatoio Medievale, the medieval wash-house of Cefalù, near the late-Renaissance Palazzo Martino, to get a glimpse into historic daily life.

Day 2 Afternoon: La Rocca and the Beach

Take a break for lunch at a local trattoria. One popular option is the restaurant at the Bar Duomo, which is also ideally located to started out your afternoon hike.

After lunch, hike up to La Rocca for panoramic views of the town and coastline. This hike starts from the free parking near the port and proceeds to Piazza Duomo, where the uphill road toward the Castle begins. Access to the Rocca costs 5 euros per person. This 2.2 mile roundtrip hike takes about 1 hours 30 minutes to complete and gains 800 ft. in elevation. It offers historical sites along the way, like the Temple of Diana and the ruins of a medieval castle.

Once you retrace your steps to town, take a break relaxing on Cefalu’s beautiful sandy beach. Swim in the clear waters, sunbathe under the Sicilian sun, or rent a stand-up paddle board to explore the waters.

Day 2 Evening: Cefalu

Enjoy an aperitivo in one of the beachfront bars. Sip on a refreshing Aperol Spritz or a local wine. Dine in a seafront restaurant, indulging in a seafood dinner while watching the sunset over the Mediterranean. Fresh grilled swordfish or risotto al mare are not to be missed. We recommend Liberty Restaurant Bistro Wine Bar, with its fresh seafood and balcony perfectly positioned to watch the sunset.

End your day with a tranquil walk along the waterfront promenade, enjoying the cool breeze and the sound of the waves, before catching the train back to Palermo.

Day 3: Borgo Parrini and Scopello

You’ll start day 3 of your western Sicily week by checking out of your lodging in Palermo and renting a car to use during the remaining days of your adventure.

Day 3 Morning: Borgo Parrini

Head out of Palermo towards Scopello. Before arriving in Scopello, you’ll make a stop in the picturesque town of Borgo Parrini, known for its colorful murals and artistic atmosphere. Borgo Parrini is often referred to as a little Barcelona. You’ll feel like you’re surrounded by the modernism of the Catalan artist Antoni Gaudì. We enjoyed a quick stop here, though we felt like we saw all there was to see in less than an hour.

Before starting your hike in Zingaro, stop in Scopello to pick up a lunch from Panifico di Stabile e Anselmo with their Cunzato bread. You’ll then continue on to the entrance of the Zingaro Nature Reserve.

Day 3 Late Morning: Zingaro Nature Preserve

There are 2 entrances to Zingaro; for this itinerary, we’d recommend the Scopello entrance. The history of the preserve dates back to the 1970’s, when there were large protests, preventing a road from being built in this area. The protests resulted in 4,000 acres being set aside for this nature reserve. The only access to the preserve is on foot, by boat, or or horseback. There is a 5 Euro entrance fee, which you can pay at the staffed parking lot. There are no facilities to buy water, so be sure to bring plenty along (and snacks/lunch), in addition to a hat and sunscreen.

The main coastal hike is a 7 km trail from south to north (or vice versa). There is no real loop to add here, so if you do the whole thing, it is a 14 km out and back. If you include time for some beach stops, this will take about 2.5 hours each way. You can of course choose to turn around earlier. The coastal trail offers continuous views along the coast, with some rolling hills built in. The main challenge here is the lack of shade. Especially in summer, we strongly recommend starting the hike early. In the winter, starting mid-morning could work well. There are many opportunities to take a break at one of the many beaches and cool off.

Day 3 Afternoon: Scopello Beaches

Pick one of the many beaches to stop at and enjoy a picnic lunch. Some of the beaches you can access easily from the south entrance are:

• Cala Capreria, just 1.2 km from the south entrance
• Cala della Disa, 2.2 km from the south entrance. The beach can be in the shade afternoon, which can be great if you need to get out of the sun. If you are looking for sun, stop at this beach during the morning.

After wrapping up your hike, head back towards Scopello and visit the Tonnara di Scopello, which is a historic tuna fishery with stunning sea views. It’s also a great photo spot.

Day 3 Evening: Scopello Village

Check into your lodging in Scopello or Erice. This will be your base for the next 4 days of your journey. Take some time to relax and freshen up after the day’s hike.

Enjoy a well-deserved dinner at one of Scopello’s trattorias. Savor local dishes like grilled fish, “pasta alla norma,” or “arancini” (stuffed rice balls). We recommend trying Ristorante La Tavernetta.

After dinner, end your day with a leisurely evening stroll through the quaint streets of Scopello, soaking in the atmosphere of this charming Sicilian village.

Day 4: Favignana Island

Favignana island is known for its stunning beaches and crystal-clear waters, and it’s a haven for cyclists. With minimal motorized traffic and well-defined cycling paths, Favignana provides a safe and tranquil environment for biking, allowing you to enjoy the natural beauty of the island without distractions. You can choose of course to rent a scooter, or head out on foot to explore the island, but it is best suited towards a bicycle.

The easiest way to get to Favignana is to take a ferry from Trapani. We visited in early October, and we were surprised to find that some of the ferry times were sold out the day before. It is easy to reserve these on the Direct Ferries site here. There are also plenty of options for private or custom tours if you prefer to have greater flexibility. You can book these through Viator or GetYourGuide.

For a detailed itinerary on your day in Favignana, please check out our post on Favignana Day Trip: Exploring the Butterfly Island.

Day 5: Levanzo Island

Levanzo is the smallest of the 3 Egadi Islands, but not one to be overlooked. Unlike the biking island of Favignana, this one is a walking (or boating) island. It is possible to bike as well, but we didn’t see a single person on a bike while we were there. The main town has only about 30 houses, all bunched up on the hill facing the harbor. The crystal clear waters and beaches around the island are absolutely stunning. Add a visit to the prehistoric caves (Grotta del Genovese) to round out a great visit.

To get to Levanzo, you will take a ferry from Trapani just as you did to get to Favignana. Some of the ferries go direct from Trapani and some stop in Favignana on the way to Levanzo. There are also plenty of options for private or custom tours if you prefer to have greater flexibility. You can book these through Viator or GetYourGuide.

Day 5 Morning: Levanzo Island

Take an early morning ferry to Levanzo from Trapano. Upon arrival, pick up a picnic lunch to take with you on your explorations. There aren’t too many options in town. Panetteria La Chicca, which opens at 8:30 am, offers a variety of sandwiches to take along. There is also a small grocery you can use to stock up (or bring something along from Trapani).

Start by exploring the quaint village of Levanzo. The small, whitewashed houses and peaceful streets make for a picturesque beginning. Visit the tiny church and browse local artisan shops. These may not be open when you arrive, but you can always stop in later in the day before catching your ferry back to Trapani.

Day 5 Mid-Morning: Hike to Grotta del Genovese

Embark on a hike to the Grotta del Genovese, famous for its prehistoric cave paintings and engravings. The walk offers beautiful views of the Mediterranean and the rugged landscape of the island. The engravings and paintings have been dated to the final phase of the Upper Palaeolithic age, and mainly depict animals and a few human representations.

Important note: in order to go into the caves, you need to reserve access 48 hours in advance on the Grotta’s website. Without this, you can enjoy the hike but can only peak in through the gate. The entrance fee is 20 Euros for adults, 15 Euros for children 6-11 (children 5 and under are free). You have the option also to book a boat or jeep tour on their website. The tours, which start at 10:30 am each day, cost 40 Euros for adults, 30 Euros for children 6-11. We did not have a chance to try one of these tours as they were booked when we visited, but they do get very good reviews on various travel sites.

If you choose to walk, the hike is 4.5 km (2.79 miles) one way, and is rated moderate, due to hills and some slippery sections. Be sure to bring plenty of water, snacks, hat, sunscreen, and trail shoes (whether hiking boots or trail walking/running shoes). It takes about an hour each way. The trail cuts through the middle of the island, but you will have stunning views of the coastline as you get close to the Grotto.

Day 5 Afternoon: Picnic Lunch and Exploring Beaches

If you are taking one of the tours, you will likely be dropped off back in town, where you can pick up lunch. Ristorante Levanzo is a popular choice, for the friendly service and convenient location next to the ferry port. Assuming you are hiking, enjoy your lunch at a scenic spot near the cave before walking back across the island.

Spend the afternoon at one of Levanzo’s pristine beaches. The top 3 beach options on Levanzo are:

• Cala Faraglione is about a 15 minute walk towards the west from the port. The spot is idyllic, with a pebble beach and protected and clear waters. We joined a handful of people snorkeling around the area. Bring along a mask or goggles to make the most of this experience.
• Cala Minnola is about a 15-20 minute walk from port in the opposite direction, and has a shady picnic spot with tables just behind the beach. It has a number of natural rock platforms leading into the water. The waters are crystal clear, and there were only a few boats anchored in the harbor when we were there. If you make it to Cala Minnola, it is worth continuing a few hundred meters on to Cala Calcara, which is a popular boat harbor.
• Cala Tramontana is a pebble beach with crystal clear water in a wide bay. It is almost 6 km (3.75 miles) roundtrip. If you have time to take a hike over, this is well worth it. Another option is to arrange for a boat to take you over to Tramontana (and potentially to the Grotto). Check GetYourGuide for the most comprehensive set of Egadi island tours I have seen.

Day 5 Evening: Dinner by the Sea

As the day winds down, take a leisurely stroll around the port area. Enjoy the tranquil atmosphere and the soft colors of sunset over the sea. Wrap up your day with dinner at one of the two restaurants in town. If you are a seafood lover, this is a great place to enjoy the catch of the day, complemented by a local glass of wine. Catch an evening ferry back to Trapani, and rest up for tomorrow’s adventures. For more Levanzo ideas, check Egadi Islands, Italy: Levanzo Day Trip.

Day 6: Erice

Stroll through Erice’s cobbled streets and visit the Castle of Venus for breathtaking views. If you are staying in Scopello (or outside of Erice), you can get to Erice either by car (from the Scopello or the Trapani side), by bus, or by funicular (cable car). We recommend the cable car for a one time experience, as you can take in the spectacular views over the coastline, Trapani, and the Egadi Islands on a clear day.

Day 6 Morning: Explore Erice and the Castle of Venus

Head through the Porta Trapani (Gate of Trapani) onto the cobblestone streets of Erice. The cobblestones are slippery, even when not wet. Make sure you are prepared with sturdy no-slip walking or running shoes.

Kick off your day with breakfast at Maria Grammatico’s Pasticceria. You’ll find a pistachio-oriented menu here. Don’t miss the pistachio coffee and a traditional Genovese pastry or two.

Once you are fortified, head up the hill to explore the Castle of Venus, which offers breathtaking views of the surrounding areas. The castle is built on top of an ancient temple dedicated to Venus and combines historical significance with scenic beauty.

Spend time wandering through the cobblestone streets of Erice. Admire the well-preserved medieval architecture and visit the main churches, like the Erice Cathedral and the Church of San Giovanni.

Day 6 Afternoon: Public Gardens and the Bell Tower

Take a break for lunch at La Casetta, offering panoramic views, and home-cooked Sicilian food in a friendly environment. After lunch, head to the public gardens, Giardini del Balio, for a peaceful walk. Don’t miss the chance to climb the bell tower adjacent to the Erice Cathedral for more stunning views.

Spend some time exploring Erice’s well known artisan shops. You can find ceramics, textiles, and other local crafts. We found this to be a great spot to shop for unique souvenirs. Take a break in one of the town’s pasticcerias for a coffee and a sweet treat. This is a great chance to try the famous “cannoli” or “cassata siciliana”.

Day 6 Evening: Sunset Views

As the evening approaches, find a spot along the ancient city walls to watch the sunset. The views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the surrounding landscapes are particularly stunning at this time. For dinner, you might choose a traditional trattoria or, if you are like us, you had eaten most of the day, and decided to just pick up some street food to enjoy at La Tonda Fritta, known for having the best arancini (rice balls) in Sicily. End your day with a leisurely stroll through the quiet evening streets of Erice.

Day 7: Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples

Start the last day of your week in Western Sicily at the Valley of the Temples, a stunning testament to Ancient Greek architecture and one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. As you wander amidst the colossal ruins and Doric columns, you’ll be transported back to the days of ancient civilizations. In the afternoon, shift from the historical to the natural with a visit to the Scala dei Turchi. This unique geological marvel, with its dazzling white limestone cliffs shaped like giant steps, descends gracefully into the Mediterranean Sea.

Day 7 Morning: Valley of the Temples

Check out in the morning and head to Agrigento. Begin your exploration at the Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site made up of 7 main temples, preserving the heritage of the city of Akragas.

It’s best to visit early to avoid the crowds and the heat. The site is open every day year round, from 8:30 am to 8:00 pm. Kolymbethra Garden has shorter opening hours, that vary throughout the year. You can buy tickets online or in person. If you are visiting during high season, buying tickets online is preferable to avoid the lines at the entries. Entrance to the Archaeological Park is 10 euros, or 5 euros for those with reduced rates. There are other ticket options, including the archaelogical museum, audio guides, etc. Children under 18 years old are free, and the first Sunday of the month is free for all.

You can simply grab a map and start exploring. Or, take part in one of many tour options to get further insights and avoid the crowds. Some of the highly recommended tours are:

• Valley of the Temples E-Scooter Tour
• Valley of the Temples Private Walking Tour
• Valley of the Temples Group Walking Tour

Start with the Temple of Concordia, one of the best-preserved Greek temples in the world, then explore the Temple of Hera, the Temple of Heracles, and the Temple of Zeus.

Day 7 Afternoon: Garden of Kolymbetra and Scala dei Turchi

For a lunch break, we’d recommend staying within the park (unless you have finished exploring by then). One good option is to bring along a picnic lunch, and take this into the lush and shady Garden of Kolymbetra. You’ll find picnic tables when you wander down the path towards the center of the gardens. This is a great spot to unwind and take a break from the heat. If you don’t bring along a picnic, there is a restaurant in the park as well, and there are a few spots where they have tasting menus if you don’t mind a lighter lunch.

For the remainder of your afternoon, we’d suggest 1 of 2 options, depending on your mood.

Option A: Visit the Archaeological Museum of Agrigento, which houses an extensive collection of artifacts from the Valley of the Temples and the surrounding area, offering deeper insight into the ancient history of the region.

Option B: Visit the Scala dei Turchi, or Turkish Steps. Nestled along the southern coast of Sicily, the Scala dei Turchi is a geological formation renowned for its striking white cliffs, made of soft limestone and sculpted by wind and waves into smooth, stair-like layers that cascade down to the azure Mediterranean Sea. You are able to explore and climb on the steps.

The Scala dei Turchi also holds a place in local lore, named after the Turkish pirates who once moored their ships here. This spot offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and a serene atmosphere, making it an unmissable destination for those exploring the charms of Sicily.

Day 7 Evening: Historic Agrigento

On your way back to Agrigento, stop at Lido Azzurro, one of the best spots to enjoy an aperitivo and a sunset. Head back to the city and spend some time wandering through the historic center of Agrigento. For dinner, and to wrap up your week in Western Sicily, try out La Terrazza dei Templi in Agrigento, with excellent food and views over the Valley of Temples.

Travel Tips

How to Get to Western Sicily

The most common entry point is through Palermo, the capital of Sicily, which is well-served by the Falcone Borsellino Airport with flights from major cities in Italy and Europe. An alternative option is flying into Trapani (Vincenzo Florio Civil Airport).

Where to Stay for your Week in Western Sicily

Sicily offers a wide range of lodging options, from camping and budget hostels to luxury hotels. We’ve included a selection of our recommendations below.

Palermo area

• Luxury: Rocco Forte Villa Igiea
• Mid-Range: Palazzo Natoli Boutique Hotel
• Budget: Afea Art & Rooms

Scopello / Erice

• Luxury: Hotel Baglio Oneto dei Principi di San Lorenzo – Luxury Wine Resort (in Marsala)
• Mid-Range: Hotel La Tavernatta
• Budget: Baglio La Reserva

Agrigento

• Luxury: Villa Athena Resort
• Mid-Range: La Pagliera
• Budget: Oneira Rooms

How to Get Around Western Sicily

Palermo is easiest explored on foot and via public transport. For the remainder of your week in Western Sicily, it is easiest to rent a car. A few words of advice on rental cars:

• Smaller cars are much easier to navigate through any city or town streets, and also much easier to park.
• Using the EasyPark app for parking will make your life immensely easier.
• When you pick up your rental car, check before leaving the lot that the car does not run on CNG (compressed natural gas). There are very few gas stations that carry CNG in Sicily outside of Palermo, Catania, and near Cefalû. This caused us big headaches on our recent trip.
• We recommend booking via Discover Cars.

Best Times to Visit

The ideal time for your week in Western Sicily for those looking to escape the crowds is during the shoulder seasons, typically April to early June and September to October. The weather remains pleasant, with mild temperatures perfect for exploring the region’s rich history, stunning landscapes, and beautiful beaches. Late spring brings the beauty of blooming wildflowers and a vibrant green landscape, while early autumn offers the harvest season, with fewer tourists and a more authentic experience of local life. Visiting during the shoulder seasons often means more affordable accommodation prices and a more relaxed atmosphere, allowing you to delve deeper into the unique culture and serene beauty of Western Sicily.

What about visiting in the off season? We’ve included Sicily in our top 10 European destinations to visit in November. While it can be rainier and it is typically too cold to swim, there are plenty of indoor options to explore for rainy days and outdoor options for the sunny days.

If you are planning a trip to Sicily, you may like our other Sicily guides:

• How to Find Safe Havens for Sicily Bike Travel
• How to Plan a Perfect Eastern Sicily Travel Itinerary
• Renting a Car in Sicily: Things to Know Before You Go
• One Day in Syracuse, Sicily
• Favignana Day Trip: Exploring the Butterfly Island
• Egadi Islands, Italy: Levanzo Day Trip
• Day Trip Mt. Etna: An Adventure Like No Other

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